Part II. Living in Paraguay and Residency
I started Part I. of this post almost a year ago, and Part II. remained on my to-do list for a long time. After finishing the first part, we embarked on a road trip in Europe, got lost posting about those trips, and did not get back to this topic. Now, a bit “settled,” I can finally catch up. The first post ended with an unexpected storm in Asuncion upon our arrival. Here’s how the next two months unfolded in Paraguay.
Preparing for Life in Paraguay
My first tip: join the Expat Group of Paraguay before flying. We found a lot of information and made some great friends through this group. Searching the group often provides answers to questions you may have; if not, ask directly, as active members are always willing to help.
Additionally, subscribe to Bence Zakonyi’s YouTube channel and follow TucanoProd for detailed guides about residency and life in Paraguay. Another excellent resource is Paul’s YouTube channel, where he posts regular updates about Paraguay and residency, alongside his partner Alexandra, who shares valuable content about local living.
First Days and Local Essentials
During our first days, we obtained local SIM cards from Claro with data plans. A passport is usually sufficient, but our agent helped using his ID card. The SIM card itself was free; we just needed to top up. We also withdrew cash from an ATM in downtown Asuncion. Note that most ATMs charge a fixed fee of 25,000 PYG per withdrawal, so taking out larger sums is more efficient. Throughout South America, we used only our Wise (Transferwise) cards, which worked reliably in supermarkets, shops, restaurants, and ATMs. Friends have reported similar success using Revolut.
Our first two weeks were dedicated to exploring local fruits and vegetables, discovering supermarkets (Superseis became our favorite), familiarizing ourselves with the city, and meeting friendly locals and expats. Uber is very convenient in Asuncion (2–3 EUR per ride to the city center), faster and safer than crowded buses. Drivers can be speedy, though, so buckle up! WhatsApp is widely used for food orders, government inquiries, and communication—very useful for non-Spanish speakers when combined with Google Translate. English is rarely spoken outside expat circles, so learning basic Spanish (via Duolingo or other apps) is highly recommended.
Accommodation Adventures
Modern apartments start at around $1,300/month, fully equipped with pools, gyms, and parking. We booked AirBnb monthly, exploring different areas. Cheaper rentals ($500–600) require negotiation and/or Spanish. Our favorite areas were Villa Morra (for nightlife and shopping) and Santísima Trinidad (quieter, new towers). First, we stayed in this flat: two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large living room, slightly outdated furniture, minor street noise, but the two pools were almost always empty. Later, we moved to this apartment: three bedrooms, two bathrooms, rooftop pool, ideal location near Shopping Villa Morra and Villa Morra Food Park. November in Paraguay is the start of summer; we often stayed indoors between 11 am and 3 pm due to extreme UV.
Asuncion Food Parks were another highlight. Villa Morra Food Park offered a chance to meet locals and expats while sampling various foods. Vegan options were available, and the night life was enjoyable. Downtown/Old Town, however, was somewhat shocking—dirty and poorly maintained compared to other capitals. We visited only three times, realizing why apartments there weren’t recommended.
We explored iconic landmarks: Palacio de los López, Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Plaza Uruguaya, and the old Railway Station (now a museum). The station is a relic from the steam locomotive era, ceased in 1999, giving a glimpse of Paraguay’s past rail transport. Outside the city, our friend Stella took us to El Castillo de Penon, a small fortress atop a rock in the Paraguay River, steeped in myths. Boat hire was ~$3 for access.
Residency and Local Bureaucracy
After completing our residency project, we visited Iguazú Falls. Returning via Ciudad del Este, we stayed at Rio Hotel by Bourbon ($115 Fri–Sun, breakfast included). Crossing the Friendship Bridge into Brazil was thrilling, and Lucas, our Brazilian taxi driver, took us to the waterfall park (~150 BRL return). Iguazú Falls are breathtaking—hundreds of cascades spanning 3 km with immense power and noise.
Near Iguazú Falls, Parque Das Aves (Bird Park) covers 16 hectares of subtropical rainforest and houses ~1,000 birds (150 species), butterflies, and reptiles. Experiencing the vivid colors made our visit unforgettable. Note that during early 2021, Argentina’s borders were closed, so we could view the waterfalls only from the Brazilian side. Check current restrictions for multiple perspectives.
Food, Costs, and Daily Life
Back in Asuncion, food shopping and dining out cost about $100/person per week initially (higher for vegans). We later arranged weekly lunch delivery from Alma Zen: vegan Buddha bowls for 285,000 PYG ($40) per week including delivery. Occasionally, we used Verdolaga and Combitos for takeaways or dine-in. Cost-effective and delicious!
Locals were friendly, especially when we tried speaking Spanish. Expats from the US and Germany are sociable, with regular meetups via the FB group. People here are generally relaxed, “tranquilopa,” even during citywide power outages. Tereré, a yerba mate infusion, is ubiquitous, and locals are happy to share it. Our friend Toto, unique for speaking some Hungarian and perfect English, introduced us to the local Hungarian community (~160 members).
Internet in Asuncion was more reliable than electricity in some areas. 50 Mbit download and 6 Mbit upload speeds made remote work feasible. After the first big storm blackout, we adjusted by using extension cords from corridor outlets connected to generators. We always kept 1 gallon of filtered water, dry food, and cash as backup for emergencies—helpful for worst-case storms.
During our stay, we had appointments at Interpol, police, and government offices to progress our permanent residency. Tucanoprod handled the process excellently, and we received our ID card in just 1.5 months. Doing it ourselves would likely have taken 3–6 months. While possible, I recommend a trustworthy agent to avoid scams and save time and energy. Contact Tucanoprod if you need guidance.
After Paraguay, we made a quick detour to Mexico before returning to Europe, staying 1.5 months in Playa del Carmen. Mexico remained mostly open during the pandemic. Entrepreneurs and nomads enjoy a relaxed lifestyle there, while much of the world faced restrictions. We soon ended up having Corona beers on the beach—a post about the Caribbean stay is coming soon!
In summary, Paraguay was a wonderful experience. We will return next year. For frequent travelers, securing permanent residency is highly recommended. Paraguay offers a safe and welcoming “paradise” for expats. Questions? Please contact me.
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