Our Balkan Road Trip During COVID (2021)

Entering Serbia by Car in 2021 – First Impressions

We decided to go on a Balkan road trip while we were in Paraguay, in January. Many people talk against visiting Serbia without ever having been there. Most assume it is an unsafe place based on news headlines and second-hand stories. A common topic everywhere is that Serbia is full of “migrants.” We wanted to give this country a real chance. Our goal was to see its beauty and feel its true atmosphere.

It is also part of the truth that Hungarian citizens can freely enter Serbia without quarantine or PCR test requirements. This made the journey much more convenient, especially while many countries were still under lockdown. I will update this post regularly and share all our experiences here. These posts document the experiences of a Hungarian couple traveling by car with their dog. I hope you will find useful information if you are planning a trip to Serbia or the Balkan Peninsula. With confidence, I believe these posts will help change the opinion of those who currently have negative thoughts about this country.

Crossing the Border – First Day in Serbia

09/05/2021 – Subotica – After a short break in Hungary, we arrived in Serbia. We crossed the border at Tompa from Hungary. Before traveling, we checked the latest entry requirements on this official website. We also called the border customs at Röszke.

Even though everything we read confirmed that crossing was unrestricted for us, we still felt skeptical. A small worry remained that we would not be allowed to enter without a negative PCR test. You know the feeling when something looks too good to be true. This is what traveling in 2021 feels like. No Covid test and no quarantine still felt almost unbelievable.

At the Hungarian border, the officer asked us to open the car boot. He kindly informed us that quarantine would be required when returning to Hungary under the current restrictions. Upon arrival at the Serbian border, the officer took our passports and asked nothing else.

Two days earlier, we had visited a vet in Kaposvár, who updated Poppy’s pet passport. Only a general medical check and the latest worm treatment were required. No blood test was needed. We even tried to show the pet passport to the Serbian border officer, but she showed no interest. After checking our passports, she waved us through.

We were the only car entering Serbia at the Tompa border. At the same time, a long queue was heading back toward Hungary, as it was Sunday.

Arrival and First Setup in Subotica

Our first accommodation is in Subotica (Szabadka), just 20 minutes from the Hungarian border. The flat is nice, and the host welcomed us in English. Around half of the town’s population speaks Hungarian. This makes daily life much easier during our one-week stay.

We bought a local SIM card because Serbia is not part of the EU and roaming costs are high. A Telenor prepaid SIM costs 300 dinars (2.50 EUR). After topping it up with 900 dinars, we received a free 3GB data plan valid for seven days. There is also an ATM nearby, so we withdrew some cash.

With everything set, we are ready for our first grocery shopping and a proper walk through the town center. Serbia is the 24th country we have visited. We already have many landmarks on our list.

Exploring Subotica and Daily Life

11/05/2021 – This is our third day in Subotica. So far, the weather has been excellent, with temperatures between 26 and 30 degrees. The sky is bright blue, and the sun is strong.

Yesterday, we visited the town center, and it was surprisingly beautiful. I say “surprisingly” because I had never heard much about Szabadka before. In reality, I found it nicer than many Hungarian towns. The city has stunning antique buildings built in the Art Nouveau style.

Most historic buildings in the center have been refurbished. The streets are clean, and the people are warm-hearted and welcoming. The mix of Hungarian and Serbian culture gives Subotica a unique charm.

Parking was easy using the EasyPark app. Two hours cost less than one euro. We enjoyed a long walk with a short break in the middle to eat lángos on the main square. A garlic and salted one cost 90 dinars.

We also checked a few ice cream shops. All the ice cream seemed to be made with egg and milk, so we skipped it as vegans. Reni visited some stationery shops and a bookstore, where she had great fun. I simply enjoyed the summer breeze and our first full day in Serbia.

Covid: No masks are required on the streets, and most shops are open. We really enjoy the Covid-panic-free atmosphere here. I am sure many travelers choose Serbia as their destination for this reason.

Accommodation Reality Check

Unfortunately, we have not had much luck with our first accommodation. The double bed mattress has well-used springs, and your back can feel every single one of them. Luckily, there are two single beds, so I used one last night.

From now on, morning yoga will be a must to keep lumbar pain away. There is also a small house in the garden. Today, builders arrived to declutter it and prepare it for a new roof. This was something our host forgot to mention in advance.

As a result, despite the beautiful weather, we were stuck inside the flat all day because of dust everywhere. Another lesson learned: when booking an Airbnb, ask not only about mattress quality but also whether any refurbishment is happening near the apartment.

Please continue reading about our trip to Lake Palić, Sombor, and Bečej on Page 2…

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